On a spectacular Sunday afternoon with crystalline
skies, some 30 friends of Diane and Daryl Johnston were
transcendentally transported to Sardinia, an ancient island
about 120 miles off the coast of Italy. With its spectacular
coastline, rugged mountains and inimitable tradition of fine,
fresh cuisine, the population of this large Mediterranean isle
boasts the same philosophy of entertaining that many Texans
do: all a party needs to succeed are good friends, good wine
and great food.
To that end, it seems natural that the former Dallas
Cowboy and his model wife would invite several valuable
players, well-known Sardinian chefs Efisio and Francesco
Farris, owners of Arcodoro/Pomodoro Ristorante in Dallas
and a sister location in Houston, to prepare the delicacies of
their native country. The Johnstons, longtime fans of the
restaurant, are friends of the owners, including Efisio’s wife,
Lori. “We were first introduced to them about 13 years ago
through some guys at the Dallas Stars,” Daryl recalls. “They
are proud of their Sardinian heritage and, when we visit the
restaurant, they always want us to try different things, which
makes it hard to pick a favorite!”
Adds his wife, Diane: “The best part of the party was
watching Francesco and Efisio cooking in our kitchen. It’s
amazing to see how well they complement
each other. It was beautiful to watch
them do what they do so very well.”
According to Efisio, a professional
chef for nearly two decades who has
twice been invited to cook at the prestigious
James Beard House in New York,
he and his younger brother simply
brought heaps of fresh ingredients and
improvised the barbecue’s menu from
there. Of course, years of preparation and practice make that
sort of laid-back approach an option for the brothers.
Practically from infancy, their father schooled them in what
would become their mantra: Take the freshest ingredients –
whether it be suckling pig or mussels or roasted peppers –
and while cooking, use a little olive oil and salt and perhaps
some herbs to transform the dish into something delectable.
Once in the Johnstons’ expansive
kitchen that Sunday afternoon, the
chefs drew inspiration from everything
from the home’s old world ambiance to
the beautiful day. It would all help
shape the menu.
“Some of the plates and dishes
we created at the moment for the event,
we thought, originally, we might do
seven or eight dishes and we ended up
with something like 17!” says Efisio.
On the menu were staples of Sardinian cuisine, including
Pane Guttiau, toasted bread with olive oil that literally
translates to “music paper,” because of its thinness. Fresh
vegetables, especially artichokes, bell peppers and assorted
greens, are prominent on the Sardinian table as well.
Pastas, too, play a hearty role in the Farris brothers’
kitchens. At the Johnston party, they served Gnocchetti Sardi
al Cinghiale con Ricotta Salata, a Sardinian teardrop pasta
with a ragu of wild boar finished with ricotta. Ever-popular
risotto (a rice-based dish) made an appearance as well, this
time in a concert with artichoke hearts and Sardinian caviar.
“When I first came to this country and didn’t know much
English, food was my business card,” Efisio says. “How can
a girl resist you when you bring her a beautiful plate of risotto?
Cooking isn’t only cooking. It’s love; it’s passion.”
One might expect the Sardinian menus to rely heavily on
fish, considering the country’s inexorable connection to the
sea. In this case, the assumption must be tempered with an
understanding of Sardinia’s history, which saw its people
head to the mountains to live and work as hunters, farmers
and shepherds. Nevertheless, seafood does have its place.
In the case of the Farris brothers, they embrace the bounty
of the sea, from steamed mussels and seabream to caviar in
various forms.
Meats, too, are traditional favorites in Sardinia. In the
Johnston household, the Farris brothers’ suggestion of serving
roast suckling pig was greeted with great enthusiasm (it’s
a favorite of Daryl’s). The Cornish game hens, cooked over
an open flame and seasoned with fresh rosemary, was another
hit of the gathering.
For dessert, various custards as well as biscotti earned
raves from the adults and kids alike. The easy-to-eat sweets
encouraged mingling and table-hopping.
While the food took a starring role at the festivities, the
backdrop of the Johnston’s spectacular property garnered
ample attention. Situated on nearly two-and-a-half acres in
Preston Hollow, theirs is a truly park-like setting. Just days
before the party, a landscaping team had finished laying massive
rocks around the perimeter of the large pond. Mature
trees, an expansive of grass, an elliptical-shaped pool (with
its own cabana) help define the luxurious grounds.
“Kathy [Allardyce, her decorator] and I did the interior
of the house, which we took down to the studs, but the
outside was all Daryl,” recalls Diane. “We really enjoy having
people in our home, which is part of why we wanted
to own a piece of property like this, which is so great
for entertaining.”
And after this gracious gathering, to be sure, no one
leaves the Johnston home hungry.
“How can a girl resist you when you
bring her a beautiful plate of risotto?
Cooking isn’t only cooking. It’s love; it’s
passion.” - Efisio Farris
Clockwise from top: Daryl and Diane Johnston; Bottarga di
Muggine con Sedano e Pomodorini. Cozze al Vermenino di
Gallura con Crostoni all’Aglio.
ma google a casteddu no est arribau ?